Grassmarket: Edinburgh, Scotland

Back in Scotland: The Beauty of the Familiar

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Too many times as travelers, we grow too eager to explore uncharted territory and don’t find time to return to the places that have touched our souls. I’m as—or likely, more—guilty of this as anyone. No matter how much I enjoyed a region, why would I want to return to any of the hundreds of cities I’ve visited when there are thousands more out there I haven’t yet seen?

Edinburgh, Scotland

But Scotland will always be the place that keeps beckoning me back. It’s beauty is undeniable, but there’s something about the culture, the people and the place that resonate with me even deeper. This time was even more exciting, as I was able to give my sister and mom a glimpse into the country that I hold so dear.

The only thing that was slightly unfamiliar was the neighborhood in which we stayed. When I lived in Edinburgh, I was but a broke student who did all of her socializing on the Cowgate, in the Grassmarket or around the university in the Teviot vicinity. We never ventured north of Princes Street due to the sheer cost. Well now that I’m an adult(?), nine pounds for a cocktail isn’t reasonable, and a suite that accommodated three people in Stockbridge for just over $200 a night sounded like a downright steal.

Nira Caledonia: Edinburgh, Scotland

Note: Accommodation for more than two people in Scotland is really hard to find—but I promise to share tips with you on doing so another day. (Updated to add: Here’s that post!)

After poring over reviews on several user-generated sites—I’m nothing if not thorough—I settled for the Nira Caledonia, which turned out to be a smart choice. It occupies an old Georgian home, with all the class and charm of the finest Edinburgh home (squeaky floor boards, included).

Given that we were in Europe, where city hotel rooms are notoriously tiny, I was pretty shocked to find such spacious quarters. Not that we spent much time in them, but it was still a great home-away-from-home to return to at the end of a long day of sightseeing.

Nira Caledonia: Edinburgh, Scotland
Nira Caledonia: Edinburgh, Scotland

True, I didn’t know this neighborhood when I lived here—had never even heard of Stockbridge actually—but once we wandered a couple blocks from our hotel, I found myself not needing a map. That’s the true beauty of being in a city that you know like the back of your hand—you can navigate even those unfamiliar streets without outside assistance. It’s like you were always meant to be here, and your feet lead you to where they’re supposed to be.

Edinburgh, Scotland

While our first day was dedicated to beating jet lag and catching up with my friend Jo, day two was devoted to showing Mom and Kari all my old haunts. Let’s take a little virtual stroll down memory lane, shall we?

In the Grassmarket, at the end of my street, there were two pubs my group of friends and I used to frequent with an enthusiasm only reserved for Americans studying abroad. First, there was our favorite, Finnegan’s Wake, which featured our favorite band, the Roots, who played such familiar pub tunes as “Irish Rover” like clockwork and never seemed to grow bored with the task.

Edinburgh, Scotland

Just down the winding way, in the heart of the Grassmarket, was (yet another) Irish pub, Biddy Mulligans, which was the root of my 15-pound weight gain during my time living in Edinburgh. Hard cider, people; it’s evil in more ways than one.

Biddy Mulligan's: Edinburgh, Scotland

Well, cider and the Baked Potato Shoppe on Cockburn Street, where I dragged my sister for another snack and ate the very meal that was my lunch (and often) dinner daily for a handful of months! A tattie with cheese, pineapple and onion….yummmm. You really mustn’t go to Edinburgh without trying it.

Baked Potato Shoppe: Edinburgh, Scotland

Our bellies full, we meandered down the Cowgate, where we saw Opium, a trendy—or is it trashy? your perception as a student differs greatly than from what it is 10 years later, I’ve come to find—bar that I used to visit on the odd occasion that they were promoting drink specials just outside my flat.

Opium: Edinburgh, Scotland

We also spied the Three Sisters, which was a pretty popular pub among the student crowd and where I “shot the three sisters” with my friend Kate, taking all 10 of the required shots on the list that night and getting a “free” (yeah, free after you’ve already bought 10 shots!) T-shirt. I remember my bounty well: It was fire engine red with two targets strategically placed over my girls and likely two sizes too large. You can see why it never got worn.

Three Sisters: Edinburgh, Scotland

Espionage was our more regular haunt—well, Francie, Evan’s and mine, that is; I can’t speak for all my Edinburgh compadres—when we were looking to truly “let loose” (i.e. drink way more than any 20 year old should while shaking our collective moneymakers).

Espionage: Edinburgh, Scotland

Just down from Espionage is my old flat: Kincaid’s Court. The majority of my Edinburgh memories took place within these wall’s confines. I even got to slip through the gated entry—much to the dismay of the student who gave me an overly skeptical look when I told him I used to live there and just wanted to take a wee peek—and a wave of nostalgia engulfed me. (Or maybe it was merely the unwelcome aftermath of that baked potato.)

University of Edinburgh, Scotland

Right behind Kincaid’s was a steep set of stairs that led up the beginnings of the University of Edinburgh; the “campus” had changed a bit since I was there, but I still could point out a few landmarks (though I’d be lying if I said I spent a whole lot of time “studying” abroad…it was more like “everything but studying,” a fact I still like to keep from my parents, though I still made all As so everybody wins, right?).

University of Edinburgh, Scotland

We cut over to Nicholson Street and headed south away from the city center, where I spotted the façade of Elephants & Bagels, one of my very favorite spots I had forgotten existed. Even though we hadn’t eaten all that long ago, we stopped for a bite and a latte (tea for Mom).

Elephants & Bagels

This pattern continued for a couple hours. When there was no place left to show them—“I had coffee there once!” and “that’s the Moroccan hooka joint we used to love!” only interests your family for so long—so we headed back to New Town, where we spotted another “familiar”: an American Candy Store. I mean, who needs deep fried Mars bars when you can get your Pop-Tarts and Snickers fix right here?

Edinburgh, Scotland

My Mom felt even more at home within Edinburgh’s confines: After all, her name was plastered everywhere. (Her nickname has always been “Sweeney,” a pet name we have called her since I was a child—you call your mom “Mother?” well, mine’s “the Sween!”—due to the fact that a Joe Sweeney was always in love with her in their teens and she worried, what if I don’t find anyone else to marry—then, I’ll be Jeanie Sweeney!?! (Thanks, Dad. Luna was marginally better.) Plus, her mother’s family name is Watts, which is what my cousins have always referred to her as and that of which seems to be a Scottish clan if all the tourist kitsch is to be believed.)

Edinburgh, Scotland

But Edinburgh took in one step further: In case we weren’t feeling enough at home just yet, it went and threw in a Jack Daniels sign on every block. (We grew up 10 miles from the distillery.)

Edinburgh, Scotland

Not to mention, it disseminated errant reminders of my husband around every corner.

Edinburgh, Scotland

At least SVV needn’t worry about me forgetting about him, not even for a second.

Edinburgh, Scotland

Ella either. This is her Scottish twin, Millie. And yes, we are totally that creepy family who approaches you on the street and asks if we can take photos of your dog. Cue: three iPhones and a couple dozen shutter clicks. Don’t say I didn’t warn you when next our paths cross. Guard your canines—and your children. Sweeney is particularly avid in her photographing of other people’s kids.

Edinburgh, Scotland

But of course, the one factor that makes a place feel like home more than anything is good friends with whom you have kept up all these years (and who tolerate your presence even though you closely resemble Satan, red jacket, glowing eyes and all). My favorite saying, told to me time and again by one of my dearest friends, is that “the people make the city,” and even though a number of my “people” have since scattered across the globe like a game of jacks, there are subtle reminders of every one of them lingering around each turn.

Edinburgh, Scotland

What’s the one place you keep returning to over and over again, to the point where you feel like a “local?”

COMMENTS
  • October 3, 2012
    Brandy

    I have never been to Scotland but it’s on my (really long) list! Edinburgh looks like such a cool place and it’s always nice to know people wherever you go. I feel the same way about Madrid, since that’s where I studied abroad, and I’ll always have fun memories of what a crazy time I had there. Sometimes I think I’d like to be 21 again, then I think ‘nah’. Or maybe I’d like to be 21 again and know what I know now.

    • October 3, 2012

      YES to the last statement. Being back in Edinburgh, it was hard realizing I’m no longer that naive 20-year-old student without a care in the world, but I like having responsibility, a husband, a life, a dog, it turns out =)

  • October 3, 2012

    I’m dying to visit. Scotland is my heritage, but I’ve STILL never been.

    • October 3, 2012

      If you ever decide to go, definitely hit me up! Nothing makes me happier than introducing others to my favorite country in the world.

  • October 3, 2012

    You look like you had a wonderful time and would make an excellent Scottish tour guide, or least a I-know-the-best-places-for-drinking guide!

    • October 3, 2012

      Ha, I know, right? This post totally makes me look like a lush (even though, in all fairness, I was a 20-year-old lush when I lived there). Though notice that I visited the exteriors of all my former bars during daylight hours and didn’t even stop by for a drink! Actually touristy stuff in Edinburgh to come… =)

  • October 3, 2012

    Seeing that there is a baked potato shop is enough reason for me to want to visit Scotland.

  • October 3, 2012

    I definitely fall into the trap of wanting to go somewhere new and shiny (or, in reality, gritty), but I also love playing tour guide at home. Sounds like all I need to do to get excited about going back to somewhere I’ve been is to convince some friends to come along.

  • October 3, 2012

    Loved your post!!! My husband and I are taking my mom to England and Scotland next May. We thought about staying in a B&B between Stirling and Edinburgh but after reading your post I think I’d rather stay in the city!! I went to Ireland in 2011 and really missed the pubs, I was wondering whether England or Scotland would have the same thing. If Edinburgh has good pubs then I think it would be well worth it to stay in town so we can visit one

  • October 3, 2012
    Giselle and Cody

    Wow, fantastic! Scotland looks gorgeous, we are hoping to visit one day.
    We WILL visit one day! 🙂

    Great photos! Definitely have to visit that baked potato shop!
    We keep returning to Egypt. We have been there 5 times between the two of us.
    We know our way around pretty well!

  • October 3, 2012
    Monster

    I haven’t had a place like that yet. I haven’t lived anywhere after college very long, and my parents moved away from my hometown, so I don’t really have anywhere familiar to go to yet.

    However, the town we live in now will be that place for me. This is the first time we’ve lived anywhere that I’ve really felt like we’re part of the town, like this is home. If we have to leave one day, this will be the place I think of fondly and miss in my heart.

    (I also really want to go to Scotland!)

  • October 4, 2012

    I have so many comments!

    1. Your family is so cute (expect this comment on every post from this trip).
    2. Ugh, we had the same issue with accommodation finding for three people in Iceland.
    3. Your hotel looks AMAZING!
    4. When we finally meet in person, remind me to tell you my nightlife story about Edinburgh. It involves face painting and a cow mask.

  • October 4, 2012

    Your photos are fantastic! I’ve never been to Edinburgh (my sister though has been there though and clearly enjoyed it – see http://solofemaletravel.net/2010/12/solo-female-traveler-edinburgh/) But what I liked about your photos was that it actually made me “see” what I thought Edinburgh would like as described by Alexander Mcccall Smith in his Isabel Dalhousie novels. I can just see the philosopher-detective roaming around those lovely streets

  • October 4, 2012

    Yes, I definitely need to visit scotland!!! 🙂

  • October 4, 2012

    I love this! Great photos, and looks like such a wonderful time!

    DC is a place where I will forever return to and feel at home. It helps that my “family” is there–the one that I built while living there. And I think if I were to return to Rome (hopefully someday soon!), where I studied in college, it would be so familiar. There are mornings when I am walking to my office and a memory comes on strong, pushing me back into some heavy Romanisicing. I can still smell the city! (I mean that in a good way.) (Mostly.)

  • October 5, 2012

    Love the photos, love the idea of returning to a loved place, and love Scotland!

  • October 5, 2012

    I love the power of beautiful photos to convince people to come and visit the place and experience its beauty. I’ve never been to Scotland and I’ve always wanted to go, hopefully someday. 🙂

  • October 5, 2012

    Looks like y’all are having a blast. I love how much you love Scotland. We are the same way and have NO shame returning to places we enjoy —> Glacier National Park

  • October 6, 2012

    It is wonderful to find a place like that. It’s Argentina for me. And I just added a new place to the list… Portland, Oregon!

  • October 6, 2012

    I’ve enjoyed this past trip so much here and also on Facebook and Instagram! I haven’t been to Scotland since I was 14 (ages ago), but it certainly left me with an indelible impression.

  • October 6, 2012

    I’m so guilty of never wanting to return to a place because there’s always so much more to see. Philadelphia is the only place I consider a second home at the moment, but I’d love to go back to Cork, Ireland where I studied- especially after reading about your experience 🙂 I guess the way I could look at it is, same place, but you’re in a totally different place in life, it brings a whole new perspective.

  • October 7, 2012

    I love Edinburgh! I’ve only been once but would happily return. I keep returning to Vancouver, it was always where I wanted to live when I lived in Canada, but didn’t work out. Now you’ve got me thinking about cider, living in Germany it’s so hard to find cider and it’s one of my favorite drinks.

  • October 7, 2012

    I can keep going back to the Southwest region of the United States. Or Yosemite. Or anywhere with mountains, really. They change with the season and I’ll never get bored of them.

  • October 7, 2012

    Do you know that Scotland is the only country I’ve visited thus far that I have no desire to return to?! So strange, but it just didn’t dazzle me. However, as I get older I’m starting to crave the desire to always return to familiar and beloved cities. It’s hard to find the time to travel to old and new places!!! I love these shots! Looks like you and your fam had SO much fun! 🙂

  • October 8, 2012

    I’ve never been in Scotland but as a traveler I agree that there’s always a place we wanted to return for many times specially when you met good people and totally had a great experience in that specific place that truly touches our heart.

  • October 8, 2012

    Thanks for the pub-crawl tour of Scotland! 😀

    PS. I don’t know any sane person who’d pass that cute dog & not take a photo…

  • October 9, 2012

    As amazing as it is to explore new places, there’s something magical about returning to somewhere you’ve connected with already. Be it knowing the restaurants to dine in, the sights to revisit, how to avoid the crowds, the best ways of navigating the streets–being familiar with a place allows you to truly relax and enjoy yourself. It’s also nice to see how the city has changed since the last time you’ve visited.

  • October 10, 2012

    LONDON! London is our place. I LOVE IT. I can’t wait to go back and hang out with our friends!

  • October 14, 2012
    EdinburghJo

    Hi Kristin!

    Have loved all your posts about Edinburgh, was so pleased that after all your travels it still holds a wee place in your heart! Was so great to meet your mom and Kari too (finally!), they are both the cutest….. come back soon 🙂 x

    • October 29, 2012
      Mom

      Hey Jo! Miss you and the handsome “Harry”. We talked a lot about y’all on the rest of our trip!

  • October 22, 2012

    Lovely collection of nice building and old place hope you will enjoyed a lot traveling here to spend vacations.

  • November 5, 2018

    This content is more than anything. Attractive piece of writing!

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