On Safari: Laughing Hyenas

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I’ve never been much of a morning person. I consider 6:30am an ungodly hour to be awake, so when the designated lodge alarm clock—a burly guide who went door to door knocking in the dead of the night—came calling at 3:45am, there was nothing I wanted more than to burrow under the covers and never come out. But alas, we were in Africa and an early start means a better chance to spot some stellar wildlife, so Mom and I begrudgingly got out of bed, dressed in our warmest clothes and were to the safari Jeep by our departure time of 4:15am.

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

Apparently, those who reside in the bush don’t keep similar sleep habits to mine, as once we set off for our morning ride, the game park was alive with sounds and animals stirring. We immediately came across a family of hyenas. And by family, I mean a mother, a father, lots of cubs, and plenty of aunts, uncles and cousins (maybe even a red-headed stepchild or two). There were hyenas everywhere we looked. (And no, not a moment passed when I wasn’t wondering if Scar would lumber out from behind a bluff.)

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

While adult hyenas make the most ear-piercing cackle and emit this stay-away-from-me vibe, the babies are adorable. I wanted to scoop one up in my arms and give it a good cuddle.

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

They gave us quite a fright, though. Playful as household pups, the babies kept running up to our Jeep and batting at the tires. The way the adults were glaring at us, we were just waiting for them to come charging in defense. Agile as they are, we probably wouldn’t have had nearly the time to start up the vehicle and go speeding off as we would had the lion decided to make lunch out of us.

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

The adults were nowhere near as endearing the babies, though.

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

In fact, I found them downright ugly. I know, I know, it’s like children—no animal is truly ugly. But aren’t they quite sinister and ominous in appearance?

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

Particularly the really mangy one with the missing eye. That’s right, that hyena had an all-white, dysfunctional eyeball that seemed to be watching us from every direction (in keeping with the pop culture reference, it wasn’t unlike Mad Eye Moody’s). Creepy.

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

Eventually, the babies sleepily retreated back to their dens—it was barely 5:30am by this time, after all—but the adults stayed alert, ears perked and pointed toward the west. We thought we might get to witness a kill, and in an attempt to do so, driver Dyke sped alongside the pack as they ran through fields of tall grass.

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

 ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

They led us into a huge pond and went diving in, splashing one another and nipping at each other’s necks. We never did see an attack, but we watched swimming hyenas frolic, which I can’t say is something I’m used to seeing every day.

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

 ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari

ngala, kruger, travel, photography, south africa, safari, hyena

COMMENTS
  • November 24, 2010

    Oh Kristin, I am just dying to go on an African safari! That’s just my dream! But after all the financial (home renovation) fiasco that we’ve been through, I’m left without any savings for my dream trip. I’m so sad…..but your photos cheer me up! It reminds me that I have a goal to reach…

  • November 24, 2010

    So. Freakin’. Cool. Those hyenas are fierce!

    Also, I’ve been awake at 3:45 before, but usually because I’m still awake, not because I’m getting up.

  • November 24, 2010

    WOW! I am so glad I stumbled upon this blog! Fantastic photos and stories.

  • November 24, 2010

    Awwwwwwww, they’re so cute! Am I supposed to think hyenas are cute? HA!

  • November 24, 2010

    Great photos! I saw hyenas on a night safari at Kruger, and yeah, totally scary looking:

    but the little babies feeding their mama were sooo cute

  • November 24, 2010

    I can’t help but think about the hyena’s in The Lion King and how they are so evil and stinky and what-not. Clearly, I am an untraveled swine who uses Disney movies for reference. 🙂 (I also moonlight as The Shoeologist, thanks for your comment!)

    xox

  • November 24, 2010

    I remember I once saw a documentary on TV in which a hiena snapped a beer bottle with its teeth to lick a few drops. Those jaws have so much power! Great pics!

  • November 24, 2010

    I vaguely remember getting up at some ridiculously early hour all 5 mornings at Kruger. Yet after some coffee and a few animal sightings it was all worth while. We mostly saw hyenas pacing along the camp’s fence line with red glowing eyes when a flashlight was shinned on them. But alas no babies and they are adorable. Awesome captures.

  • November 24, 2010

    Great post. Thoroughly enjoyed your Laughing Hyenas photo essay. Only saw a few while I was on safari. Brings back memories of early morning game drives.

    ~cheers, @hiptraveler

  • November 24, 2010
    Jennifer

    After being attacked by a Coatimundi in Costa Rica today, I’d say they are rather cute.

  • November 25, 2010

    You are SO lucky to have seen so much of the hyenas! And to have seen them swimming! Even though they are definitely up there on the list of “Ugly 5” it’s awesome to spend time getting to “know” the beasts of the bush about which you hardly ever think. I think that’s the magic of a good safari! So glad you’re recapping the SA stories: great reading to return from antarctica to… it reminds me that home is a wonderful place. Happy thanksgiving!

  • November 25, 2010

    hyenas are one of my favorite animals, the fact they laugh always cheers me up. nice photos

  • November 28, 2010

    We took my son to a safari park in Az and learned that Hyenas moo when they are happy or content and cackle when they are in aggression mode. There was one Hyena in particular that was in love with my son, he followed him back and forth along the fence moo-ing the whole way. It was cute and unsettling at the same time.

  • December 1, 2010

    So these are definitely hyenas and not wild dogs? I have a problem telling the difference because they’re pretty similar. These ones are quite ugly…. but the ones we saw, I thought they were cute. Maybe they’re a slightly different species. That’s the only thing that’s bad about a self-drive safari… it would have been nice to have a knowledgeable guide sometimes.

  • December 2, 2010

    Wow. I guess I really didn’t know what they looked like! As always, great animal photography — and commentary!

  • December 5, 2010

    God, I’m not keen on hyenas, or wild dogs, for that matter. Lovely photos, though. Have you bought a new camera since the orangutan shots? Or is it the same one with a new lens? I’ve just upgraded to a DLSR and want an animal-friendly lens…

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