FAQ

Here’s the part where you pepper me with all your travel-related questions, and I try my hardest to answer (or research the Internets to death until I find a suitable solution). The top post is the most recent and so on and so forth. Keep e-mailing me; I feel the love.

Q: How did you get into travel writing? How can I get a job like yours?

A: I get this question via e-mail, blog comment, Facebook, text, telepathy at least three to 47 times a week. And while I usually send off some rambling stock response, I thought I’d put it all out here, as to maybe (hopefully) reduce the number of people who hit me up wanting to steal my job. Oh, and maybe you’ll find some of it useful. Before I go into a long, rambling response, I’ll refer you to this post on Gala Darling and my “So You Wanna Be a Travel Writer?” post from my archives which also shed some insight to the question.

While it would be so simple if there were just some magical wand I could wave in your direction that would grant you the ability to travel full time and get paid for it, there isn’t. And even if there were, I wouldn’t want it that way, because it takes years in the trenches for most (a decade in my case), and it’s only fair we all pay our dues, wouldn’t you say? But here’s the “Cliffsnotes” version of my long, convoluted journey to semi-success.

I knew I wanted to be a journalism major since I was in middle school, so I started verrrrry early. I worked for my school newspaper, going in an hour and a half before the bell rang every day of the week to log my hours and work on my stories. I also got involved in the town’s sole newspaper, doing anything and everything they’d let me, and became the president of the city’s integrated media society, which gave me a well-rounded understanding for print, radio and television media. I joined any club that had anything to do with the media and might be a good foundation for when I headed to college. If there wasn’t a group out there that met my needs, I founded my own.

I continued along this route for years until I was in college, then became an editor for the daily newspaper at the University of Tennessee, which was essentially a full-time job. That helped to significantly boost my clipbook, while giving me managerial experience, as I oversaw 30+ writers, was responsible for every story idea, coordinated photographers, came up with the artwork and performed countless other menial tasks.

At the beginning of my senior year, I landed an internship of sorts (paid! so rare!) with Harper’s magazine out of Knoxville, and during my final semester, went up to New York for a week on a networking opportunity. I didn’t know a soul there—unlike so many other journalism students from northern schools, I had no connections whatsoever to get me in the door—but I did my best to meet people, gather business cards, and e-mail within the days that followed to remind them of who I am. I managed to schedule seven job interviews at various magazines in two days over my Spring Break, so I flew back up to Manhattan. I got four of the seven offers, none of them paid. I spent the rest of the semester saving funds to live in such an expensive city, and the day after I graduated, moved everything to New York, lived on an air mattress for three months, and worked at Newsweek on the weekends and In Touch Weekly during the week.

After a few months, I moved back to Europe to complete a post-grad degree, and I used the connections I had made in New York to pitch freelance travel pieces to my past editors. After awhile, some of them took the bait, and I started building up my travel portfolio on an international scale. I then got my first guidebook assignment, completed it (that’s another story for another time), moved back to New York and re-entered the ratrace. All along, I had been writing a weekly Sunday column, for which I never got paid in the two years and tens of thousands of words I wrote, for a newspaper back in Tennessee. It’s all about the exposure, though.

Finding a job when I returned wasn’t so easy, so I took yet another internship (after having a freakin’ book published; at least it paid decently this time ’round), while working nights fact-checking at Us Weekly or being a paparazzo for various entertainment magazines. From there, it was various six-month, in-house editing jobs, all the while juggling two or three jobs at once and always finishing my travel assignments in “my free time.” The job-hopping was a means to find a permanent spot, but turned out to work in my favor, as I befriended so many talented editors, who would later assign me stories. Eventually, I built up enough of a reputation and Rolodex of industry contacts with whom I had previously collaborated to ditch CubeVille altogether and work for myself. It’s still not easy—I never know where the next paycheck is coming from and I get just as many rejection letters (or worse, no response at all) as I do assignments. To this day, I still never turn down any work offered to me (unless it’s not paid, of course) and take on every guidebook offer thrown my way, even though it’s very unglamorous, tedious and often unrewarding.

The problem with the Internet is that it’s made everyone a “writer.” Don’t get me wrong, I love reading blogs written by a cache of folk from all walks of life and careers, but in a sense, it’s created throngs of people who consider themselves to be “writers” by default and, thus, diminished the skill and training it takes to be a successful journalist. At the same time, many of these people who write also travel and think that just because they’re in Spain on vacation, that qualifies them to pen a freelance piece on the story (in response to all the “I’m going to the Philippines and want to write about it!”-type notes I receive on a regular basis). Sorry to break it to you, but lots of people go to Spain each year, and lots of those same people never get the chance to write about it. Unless you just happen to be going to some really obscure locale like Niue that not many have visited, you need a fresh new angle like the underground music scene in Bogota or the stark contrast between Barbados’ two main components, church and rum, to sell your article.

Also, what qualifies you, as opposed to a Colombian or Bajan to write the aforementioned story? What publication is it perfect for? What department? What issue (bearing in mind that magazines plan their editorial calendars a year or two in advance)? These are just a couple of the many questions you must address in your initial pitch. Pitching is frustrating, as the research often takes more time than the story itself, and there’s no promise your idea will ever even come to fruition. Also, the reality of travel writing is that much of it is commercial (take a look at my In the Media page to see just how many top 10s and round-up pieces I’ve been forced to do in the past year); there’s a good chance you won’t be writing about what you want or any type of lengthy well feature really until you’re too old to enjoy it anyway.

So my advice to aspiring travel writers? Well, firstly, get out while you still can! The media industry is being killed off, journalist by journalist, and you’re wiser to use your writing prowess in other capacities (that will be around longer and hopefully earn you a better salary than the paltry one of a travel writer living paycheck to paycheck).

If you’re still not convinced, then I suggest starting with an internship. Many people don’t want to hear the reality of the situation, they think they’re too old or overqualified to intern. But let me put it to you straight: If you’re that passionate about doing this and have no prior experience, it is, often, the only way. I have friends who have made career changes in their 30′s and started from ground up: unpaid intern to editorial assistant to, eventually, editor. It’s no different than if I woke up one day and decided I wanted to be a partner in a law firm. I’d first have to go to law school, doing summer associateships and bitchwork along the way, pass the bar, land myself a job, then over the years hope to work my way up to that coveted position. Nothing good happens overnight, and I think we’ve become a society of people who expect handouts and everything to happen the fast-track route.

Read every journalism site and newsletter you can. My first guidebook assignment came from a job posting I read about on Ed2010. I took a leap of faith, was one of 800+ who applied and, after two months and three rounds of interviews and edit tests, ended up being one of the 16 they hired. MediaBistro’s Avant Guild membership is another excellent resource, best $49 I ever spent. You’ll find How to Pitch guides for a number of magazines, as well as advice and interviews with people in the biz on how to break in, what creates a successful pitch, etc.

Start a blog. If you already have a blog, join online communities like BlogHer or 20 Something Bloggers to expose your blog and build up a wide readership (you never know, the editor of your dream publication could be out there reading your prose). Self promote and create a brand for yourself through your site, whether by attaching it in the signature line of your e-mail or linking to it on your Facebook, Twitter or MySpace page.

Network. No matter how wiped I am or how many events I’ve already attended in a single week, I make it a habit of going to that one more. You never know if that crucial contact is going to be sitting right across from you. On a more impersonal scale, use social networking to your advantage. Believe it or not, Facebook has landed me some pretty cushy assignments from editors who happened to be my “friends” and followed my globetrotting through my status.

Pitch, pitch, pitch. A fellow journalist friend recently equated pitching to dating: You have to go out with loads of wrong guys until you find that perfect match. Pitching is the same; you’ll rarely get it right on the first try. Also, start small. If you haven’t had any national media experience, pitch your local newspaper or a regional magazine to garner experience and clips. I’ve never heard of an editor assigning a three-page feature to a newbie; you have to begin with FOB (front-of-the-book) department pieces before one day working up to the bigger stuff.

I hope this didn’t come across as to bitchy or as if I’m trying to dissuade you from following your dream. Many people tried to talk me out of doing the same, and I’m glad I didn’t listen to them. I wouldn’t go back and change anything about the past few years if I could (not even the countless tears I’ve shed and Devil Wears Prada moments I’ve gotten through!). But I like to be honest and upfront about all the work it takes to make it in the industry. If you still want a little more taste of what my job is write read the guest post I wrote for Secret Agent Josephine on the topic. And for all of you travel writers out there reading this, feel free to add your advice in the comments below. You’re never too old or experienced to learn; I’d like to know how you do it yourselves!

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Q: My sister is going to study abroad in France in the spring and I would like to get her something for her semester as a Christmas gift. Do you have any suggestions for study abroad/travel essentials or accessories? –Lauren

First off, never underestimate the necessity for a sturdy set of luggage. She’ll need something sturdy that can stand the test of planes, trains and automobiles. I suggest something bright-colored or patterned, as it’s much easier to spot when coming around the luggage belt. Lands’ End has some great sets; if you don’t want to get multiple pieces, I’d suggest a rolling one in carry-on size that is perfect for weekend getaways. Macys.com also frequently has sales on sturdy pieces from Diane von Furstenberg, Tumi and the like. At one point, I hauled around a backpacker’s pack on my back in all my travels, but since have learned that small rollers are the way to go (and much better on your posture!).

She’ll likely be keeping in touch with you all by Skype, which is the economical way to call other countries. Set her up with a (free) account and purchase her some credit to get her started. You could also look into getting her a French cell phone that uses a SIM card, as she’ll probably be buying one anyway when she moves overseas (most international students do).

I’ve recently ditched the Canon Elph series—which is great for a cheaper, smaller model—and replaced my PowerShot with one of the Canon G series. It’s a great cross between a point-and-a-shoot and a DSLR, though much more compact than the latter. Make sure to add a memory card that is at least 2GB in size. Likewise with an iPod: always handy to have when traveling. I recommend the classic iPod with video capability and 160GB of storage or the more economical Nano 16GB—enough room for all of her favorite songs, yet small and sleek enough to tuck away in her pocket when traveling.

Flight001.com, which has store locations in NYC, Chicago, LA and the Bay Area, has some fun travel accessories and stocking stuffers and is currently offering 20% off all purchases. You could do some serious damage there!

And of course, guidebooks always make safe presents. Although I work for Frommer’s(!), I would recommend a student pick up a Rough Guide first, as they’re more geared to younger travelers. She’ll likely be traveling frequently on weekends and school breaks, so you can’t go wrong with getting her the Rough Guide to Europe on a Budget, the Rough Guide to First Time Europe, or one of Lonely Planet’s many Europe titles. If you can find a copy of MTV Europe (no longer published), that’s another good one, but whatever you do, please step away and put the Let’s Go back down! Something else to check out before you buy is the publication year. Most guidebooks update every year or two, so you don’t want an edition that was written more than two years before as a lot of things can change in the hospitality industry during that time.

Lastly, if you’re going the more budget route, like many people are doing this holiday season, set up and design her a blog for her travels. You can even buy her a domain, or if you want to keep it simple, register her for a free WordPress account and get it all ready to go, so all she has to do is sit down and write a post! I only wish I’d been keeping a blog five-plus years ago when I was studying in Europe!

Also, refer to my past gift guides for travelers here and here.

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Q: I have a question about a place literally near and dear to you … San Francisco. But not just SF—my husband and I are taking a vacation in October and we’ll be driving from San Francisco up to Portland, so I’m wondering if you have some MUST SEEs on the way. I know about redwood, and plan to visit there, and obviously drive along US1. But I would love some other big standouts, and especially an idea of a maybe not-so-pricey but fabulous place to stay in SF? –Judi

A: While I’m quite new to the area myself (going on eight months!), you’re in luck, as I just returned from Northern California somewhat near the border. I would highly recommend starting your trip by way of Highway 101, departing from SF via the Golden Gate Bridge, stopping in Sausalito and Tiburon along the way and continuing on to Mendocino County from there. You can stay in Hopland for a night, a tiny pinprick of a town that has some great tasting rooms, like Sip!, and affordable restaurants like the Crushed Grape (where you can watch rousing games of bocce ball while you dine). Book a room at cutesy, romantic Lawson’s Station, which consists of seven luxurious, yet affordable suites only–though be warned, the place seemed a bit haunted to me (this is the same hotel where I was the sole guest!).

The following day, stop in at Bluebird Cafe across the street for breakfast before you go, then take your time reaching Highway 1 via Highway 128, which bypasses Mendocino’s own Wine Country, Anderson Valley. Enjoy free(!) tastings at wineries like Husch and Navarro. An alternative route (if you’re history buffs rather than oenophiles) would be to travel through Ukiah and Willits instead and take Highway 20 over, stopping at Ridgewood Ranch, where Seabiscuit was born (many of his descendants still reside there).

Stay a night or two in either Mendocino Village or Fort Bragg. No matter which you choose, you should explore the other, too, as they’re very different and beautiful in their own ways. Mendocino’s more upscale, but much smaller with a rugged coastline that can be seen from anywhere in town; Fort Bragg has a more old-fashioned downtown area and far more rustic. Recommended inns in Fort Bragg would be North Cliff or Old Coast Hotel; in Mendocino B&Bs are a dime a dozen, though Whitegate Inn, Inn at Schoolhouse Creek and MacCallum House are particularly popular. Don’t pass up on dinner at 955 Ukiah and/or Cafe Beaujolais.

When you continue on north of Fort Bragg, you’ll switch back and forth between the coast and the redwood forests the entire way, passing through Humbolt Redwood State Park, where much of Star Wars was filmed. The forest also boasts the Avenue of the Giants and the tree you can drive through. You’ll eventually hit the Lost Coast, one of California’s most unspoiled (and thus, most stunning) stretches of beach, which you’ll have to reach by foot from Highway 1 because it’s so remote (be sure and bring your hiking boots!). Beyond that, you’ll eventually come to Humbolt (pot capital of the world) and Eureka, which I ashamedly have yet to visit (it’s a looooong way from San Fran!), but SVV ensures me that the area is equally as amazing!

Be warned, though: Taking Highway 1 and 101 all the way to Orgeon will add a full day of driving to your trip, at the very least–and it’s not all fun driving (think extremely windy roads that mess with your equilibrium). However, if you’re professional sightseers and have the extra time, I would highly recommend that route, as the scenery is unsurpassed. If you choose to take 1 and 101 all the way to the border, you’d be wise to cut over to I-5 at Crescent City via 199 for the Oregon portion of your driving–otherwise you could be driving for weeks! More detailed information on Northern California specifics can be obtained through 71Miles, one of my favorite local travel sites.

As far as cheap(er) stays in San Francisco, there are quite a few (though “inexpensive” in California translates to under $200, I’ll warn you). Boutique Hotel des Arts, for one, boasts 38 rooms, each of which were designed and decorated with original artwork by local artists. Prices start as low as $79 for standard queens. One of my favorite B&Bs within the city’s confines is the Chateau Tivoli, a nine-room Victorian which is located just across the way from the famed Painted Ladies in Alamo Square. Rooms here start at $100 on weekdays, $130 on weekends. A family-owned inn that I haven’t checked out personally but that  consistently receives very high marks from guests is Golden Gate Hotel in Nob Hill, where rooms start at $150 a night (including breakfast). Then, there are the various Joie de Vivre properties that are always pristine and well appointed and often affordable, too, as well as the centrally-located Union Square Hotel, which starts around $170 a night. If you’re not booking your rooms until later this month, I’d check LocalGetaways for deals, a very resourceful Northern California travel site that will be launching toward the end of September.