Prior to my trip last month, I’d been to Germany a half dozen times at least. Considering I lived directly to the west (the Netherlands) and due north (Denmark), it was often a convenient location to go for Coldplay concerts and cheap grocery shopping at Wal-Mart when we couldn’t afford to eat otherwise in Scandinavia. I hadn’t, however, been back in two years since Oktoberfest, nor had I ever stepped foot in Berlin.
East side to the West side; straddling the Wall
How is that even possible? I’ve been to hundreds of cities, most of the major ones in Western and Central Europe, and never to Berlin, which is probably more steeped in history than many of the rest. To be honest, I went back and forth on whether or not I was going to even go on this trip. Sure, I’d always wanted to go to Berlin, but I try not to revisit countries too many times while I could be out exploring new ones. But my intrepid pal Holly went on this same trip last year and called it “life-changing.” I wondered how five days in a major European hub with a handful of other journalists could be described as that, but I trust her opinion, and in retrospect, I’d say she hit the nail on the head.
Brandenburg Gate at night
You see, history has never been my strong suit. I was always a whiz at geography—in fact, I’d say my ninth grade geo teacher Mr. Hargrove, who made us do country profiles for every nation in the world and memorize all the details, as well, is the one who got me so excited about traveling—but history. Whew, history and I were never two peas in a pod. Don’t get me wrong, I want to be good at history, I really do. I just can’t seem to retain any information that I learn. Which is weird considering a) I have a photographic memory (for the most part), b) my mom got her degree in Russian history from Vanderbilt—while she can hardly remember my fiance’s name (she tends to call him Todd), she can spout off facts about any ancient empire like it ain’t no thing—and I seem to have inherited the majority of her academic traits and c) I grew up hearing my granddad rehash every last detail from the Depression and his four years in Europe during World War II. And still, it doesn’t sink in. What has proven to work, however, is actually immersing myself in a place.
bullet holes from the Cold War
So needless to say, a few days in Berlin were far more beneficial for me than several semesters in a classroom. I should add that the only history class I’ve ever found particularly intriguing was the Cold War course I took in Holland four years ago (I actually bought another copy of our textbook, A Struggle for Europe, when I returned to the United States, that’s how much I enjoyed it); this was right up that alley. In honor of the 20th anniversary of the falling of the Wall this November—can you believe it’s been two decades already? I mean, really?!—our whole trip centered around Berliner Mauer (its technical name).
I’d say in my five days there, I saw every remaining bit. There was the part near Checkpoint Charlie (pictured above)…
The West Side of the Wall, now covered in graffiti.
The East Side Gallery, where 180 artists came to morph the remaining section of the Wall into one big open-air mural in 1990 (pictured above and below).
And, of course, the iconic Brandenburg Gate in all of her glory.
You might think spending so much time seeing bits of dilapidated concrete would get old. You’d be wrong. Every square inch of the Wall contained so much history, each so varied from the rest. Not to mention, the cleared-out bunkers that now double as art galleries.
The underground ghost stations where Berliners covertly crept about deep below the city, fighting for their chance to escape.
The feeling I had standing there—anywhere and, at the same time, nowhere in particular—seeing the remnants of such a turbulent time, where so many had died, others had been been mauled while trying to escape, talking to those whose families had been affected, was simply indescribable. Thus, I won’t try. You’ll just have to go there yourself to experience it. (As if you needed a reason.)
I’ve never been to Germany before, but reading this really makes me want to. I’ve always been interested in history, especially WWI & II. Beautiful pictures!
Berlin is such an incredible city! I really, really like your pics Kristin. I need to get back to Germany. It’s been about 7 years and that’s terrible since my family is from there and still lives there. Thanks for the inspiration to return soon.
Wait, engaged?! Fuck Germany! Congratulations! *insert girly squeal here*
Oh, and Berlin looked really cool, too. I love that the wall has been covered with art. So beautiful.
You are seriously giving me the travel bug…
Thanks for taking us through Berlin! I wish I could go now, but maybe next time.
Nice to see what’s left of the wall is decorated. Bet your glad now that you opted for Berlin. I’ll bet it was kind of creepy being in the underground. Like being surrounded by ghosts from the past.
Awesome. I remember seeing bits of the Berlin Wall at Macy’s the year it came down . . . they had them packaged in little velvet pouches for $10. Weird? I can’t decide. I think so, though.
I must know under what lighting circumstances you got the second photo in this post . . . it is gorgeous!
I know I’ve said this before, but seriously? WE HAVE TO MEET.
These pictures are so amazing!
Oh my, it must have been an incredible feeling indeed. I got goose bumps just looking at the ghost station pictures.
On an unrelated note, the post title got me singing the old nursery rhyme The Grand Old Duke of York in my head! Seriously, my grey cells seem to have lost it.
I think they key to learning about history is caring about history. And the key to caring about history is getting your imagination sparked. And the key to getting your imagination sparked is getting a taste of an experience that puts you back in the time and situation you’re learning about. Which is all a way of saying that I think this sentence –
“The feeling I had standing there—anywhere and, at the same time, nowhere in particular—seeing the remnants of such a turbulent time, where so many had died, others had been been mauled while trying to escape, talking to those whose families had been affected, was simply indescribable.”
– sounds a lot to me like it comes from a bone fide student of history.
Really, this lifeof yours is just unfair.
Those photos are amazing. I didn’t realize how much of the wall still stood. And the underground stations. Man, it’s hard to believe that it wasn’t one country not that long ago.
wow. that bullet-hole picture. wow.
I would love to visit GErmany but I think it would be a hard trip for me…my grandmother grew up there…and lost her whole family there during the holocaust. I think it’s a trip i would want to take with my mother. maybe.
First off, major congrats on your engagement!! And your pics of Berlin are way cool; I may have to make a stopover there in my upcoming European mini-tour. btw, I’m sending you the “One Lovely Blog” award (http://ow.ly/gHse). Bon voyage and happy wedding planning!!
So cool! I’ve never been good at history either – one of my good friends is a history teacher though and on road trips sometimes I like to pick her brain and I ask her to practice lesson plans for us – is that dorky?
I’ve never been to Europe and am a TEENY bit jealous of your travels. But, mostly, I REALLY want to visit Finland with my dad one day.
I just returned from a trip to Berlin! I know exactly what you mean when you say you and history are not two peas in a pod and that a few days in Berlin were far more beneficial than several semesters in a classroom. History is so interesting and alive in Berlin!
I went with my daughter and her friends to Berlin and we had a fab time – for them history came alive in the small Anne Frank Museum as they were performing in a play about Anne Frank. Hope you didn’t feel the need to buy one of those little pieces of painted ‘wall’ that they sell as souvenirs.
Haha no…the only souvenirs I collect are photos (and sometimes clothes or jewelry!).